Culture Shock

Living and working on an international hospital ship, docked on the coast of West Africa is an interesting cultural experience.  At any given moment, the crew represents 35 different nationalities.  The day workers and patients also represent several nationalities- Sierra Leon, Togo, Liberia, Benin, South Africa, and of course Guinea.  Within the country of Guinea there are several cultural groups with their own language and traditions- Fula, Malinke, Susu and Kissi.  When all of these different people are mixed together, with their own cultures, beliefs, experiences, and preferences, a distinct Mercy Ships culture is formed.  At times there are issues and problems to be worked out because of different expectations; however we all have the same common mission- to provide hope and healing.

I have so much respect for the people working and living on the ship who do not speak English as a first language.  I was exhausted during my first week serving here because there is so much to remember and learn.  I cannot imagine how tiring it must for the nurses who are working in a new hospital, learning new medical terms and constantly using a different language.  They are good sports about it and we often laugh about this silly English language.  While playing Taboo, a word game, my dear friend Elisabeth Orum from Norway, learned the word raccoon.  A few rounds later the word came up again and in her excitement to guess a clue she shouted “RAGOO!”  We gave her team the point, mainly because her enthusiasm made us laugh so hard! 

At Easter time, I really enjoyed learning about the traditions that others observe during the holiday.  During the Easter Sunday Service, people from all over the world came up and said in their own language, “He is risen!”  There is so much to learn from my friends and coworkers about their lives back home.  I love sitting in the cafeteria with friends from around the globe, listening to their stories, in their lovely accents. 

Friends from five different countries, saying goodbye to Kristy!

When aboard the ship we live in a first world country.  We have clean, running water, toilets, a school, internet and satellite phones.  Yet, just down the gangway is a developing nation.  It is drastically different and at times, frustrating.  Bargaining, for example, is not a tool I’ve honed living in the Midwest.  At home there is a set price for every service or item.  Here, it is expected that haggling will take place with every transaction.  Even though there are times that I feel frustrated by the differences, there are so many experiences that make me laugh. 

While out and about, volunteers are asked to comply with a dress code, keeping our knees covered and wearing modest clothing.  We do this to be respectful of the people of Guinea.  The culture, however accepts nudity in certain circumstances and it is not offensive to find a woman breastfeeding or children bathing in the street.  Many Africans seem less embarrassed by the human body than us in the Western World.  One day, while visiting my patient and friend, Hasanatu at the Hope Center, she decided to give me a Fula language lesson.   It was actually a combined Fula and human anatomy lesson.  She would point to a body part and say the word in Fula and I would repeat the word.  She would correct my pronunciation several times and then, once she was satisfied, we would move on to the next body part.  Hasanatu started with mouth, nose, ear, neck, arm, leg, toes… and eventually got to breasts.  At this point, she decided that I would be a model and she began to ‘show me with her hands.’  She literally wouldn’t let go until I pronounced the word correctly!  I think to Hasanatu, it seemed like a reasonable thing to do in the situation.  It’s just a part of life; breasts are part of the body just like eyes and arms.  I think the other patients only started laughing when they sensed how incredibly uncomfortable I was!   Of course, I started blushing and my friend Elisabeth Rostved was watching and laughing hysterically. 

Sometimes the cultural differences have caused embarrassing situations for me.  In African culture, everyone is related.  Instead of saying “this is my friend” or “this is my wife’s sister’s husband,” one might simply say, “this is my brother” or “this is my cousin.”   On A Ward, we took care of a boy named Cherno for about a month.  His father and mother took turns staying with him until he was discharged to the Hope Center.  A few weeks later, I visited the Hope Center and saw Cherno and his dad.  Cherno’s father told me through miming and broken English, “This is my wife” and pointed to a woman I didn’t recognize, with a toddler on her lap.  I just chuckled and chalked it up to ‘African relations.’  I insisted, “No, no.  That’s not your wife.  I’ve met Cherno’s mom and that is not her.”   He looked concerned, like I didn’t understand him.  “This is my wife number two.”  I completely put my foot in my mouth!  I never even thought that he could have multiple wives.  Cherno’s dad did not seem offended, instead he quite happy that I figured out that he was introducing me to the rest of his family! 

One of my favorite memories took place during a trip to the market with Elisabeth Rostved.  We were in a shop and I was looking at some dresses that were folded on a shelf.  The shop owner started pulling them out, holding them up, and displaying them to me.  They were all handmade, so there were no sizes on them.  I looked at a few as the man would hold one up and I would tell him if I liked it, or if it looked too big or small.  There was one that I really liked, but it looked like it might be 3XL.  I tried to ask if he had the same pattern in a smaller size, but he insisted that the one he was holding would fit me.  I laughed and said “grand, grand,” indicating that it was much too big.  I even pointed to my waist and then pointed to the waist of the dress.  In my mind, there was a clear difference.  The man kept carrying on, pointing to me and saying “no petite.”  I know, I’m not small, sir, thank you for noticing. (This is the part of the story where I’m blushing again.)  Still, I believed that dress would fit two of me in it!  After much good natured discussion in my broken French and his broken English, the man decided it was best to put the dress on himself, over his clothes.  The shopkeeper looked really proud of himself and I couldn’t help but laugh.  In a place where it is a compliment to tell someone they are gaining weight, it must also help one to sell dresses by putting it on, even if you are a man.  I was not convinced about the man-sized dress, but we had a good laugh about it.  I did end up buying a different dress, which is very nice.  How could I not, after all his work!?  Elisabeth and I still giggle about it sometimes. 

At times, I have been uncomfortable, embarrassed, humbled and confused by the Guinean culture.  It has given me so many opportunities to laugh at myself and our differences.  Living and working here has caused me to consider my own ways, beliefs and lifestyle.  Coming into contact with people who have vastly different backgrounds has definitely stretched me.  Before arriving here, I prayed that God would change me through this experience, and He has.  I admit though, there were times that it was hard. 

I love this quote by Mark Twain, “Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness, and many of our people need it sorely on these accounts. Broad, wholesome, charitable views of men and things cannot be acquired by vegetating in one little corner of the earth all one's lifetime.”

Until this experience, I didn’t realize that I can be very narrow-minded.  I have never considered myself intolerant or bigoted, but since I've arrived in Guinea I have realized that my attitude is ‘my way is the best way.’  And isn’t that a form of prejudice?  That was a tough realization.  Slowly, I am learning that just because I am used to a certain way of doing things, it is not necessarily the best way.  I see ways that my American lifestyle could benefit from being ‘more African.’  People here are so charitable, even when they have very little to give.  They give thanks for what they have, take time for one another, and take pride in their families.  I came here to serve, and have received much more than I could ever give.  Now I pray that my experiences here have not only opened my eyes, but that they will stay with me.  I have expereinced the best type of culture shock, I have been changed by what I've seen. 

 

                  Cherno playing on Deck 7         Cherno's mom (left) & his father's second wife and child (right)